This invention is directed to a method of waving hair and to a silicone based neutralizer composition useful in the permanent waving of hair.
Keratin is a fibrous protein composed of eighteen different kinds of amino acids. It is widely distributed in hair and constitutes the major component thereof. Keratin is characterized by a crosslinked structure having one disulfide bond --S--S-- per average 10-20 amino acid residues. It is most frequently represented as cystine which has the formula HO.sub.2 CC(NH.sub.2)HCH.sub.2 S-SCH.sub.2 C(NH.sub.2)HCO.sub.2 H.
The first basic step in a permanent waving process is the partial reduction of cystine HO.sub.2 CC(NH.sub.2)HCH.sub.2 S-SCH.sub.2 C(NH.sub.2)HCO.sub.2 H to cysteine HO.sub.2 CC(NH.sub.2)HCH.sub.2 SH. Typically, a waving lotion containing thioglycolic acid is used in this step in a reaction in which cystine bridges are reduced to cysteine. After the hair has been reshaped, this reaction is reversed by the application to the hair of a neutralizer which is a solution containing an oxidant such as hydrogen peroxide. Cysteine residues formed during the reduction step are converted back into cystine upon neutralization.
There exists a need in the art for alternative forms of permanent waving neutralizer compositions. The present invention provides such an alternative in the form of a silicone based composition which has been found to effectively function as a keratin crosslinking agent in conjunction with an oxidizing agent such as hydrogen peroxide, in the permanent waving of human hair. It is believed that the silicone becomes part of a covalent crosslink between hair keratin fibers in providing a wave. In addition, use of the silicone has the advantage that the silicone imparts to the hair added benefits such as conditioning of the hair to provide hair that feels smoother and silkier, and which has improved combing properties.